In today’s world of diminishing bank accounts and expanding bellies, moderation has been touted as the approachable solution to saving both one’s health and one’s money. Diners are not only trying to cut back on costs due to tighter budgets, but they are also making an effort to limit their caloric intake, as finances and well-being become primary concerns that drive their dining-out decisions. Over the years, study after study has warned against the excessive consumption of red meat, scaring beef-devoted diners to restrain their cow cravings. Even though extensive research indicates that red meat is the largest contributor of iron and zinc, not to mention the second largest provider of Omega-3, an essential fatty acid that promotes the body’s health, people continue to shy away from entrée size portions of beef when going out to eat.

Fortunately, for carnivores who are watching their waistlines and wallets, creative beef appetizers provide an affordable, fulfilling way to satisfy their red meat cravings. Whether it is a perfect preparation of indulgent sweetbreads such as the one offered at San Francisco’s Spruce, or an avant-garde appetizer of braised veal cheeks with caramel-dipped dates at Lake Tahoe’s Six Peaks Grille, it is clear that meat has jumped into a more sophisticated role in the first course act on menus. 

When dishes of high quality are available at a moderate price point and portion size, the customer is able to experience finely crafted dishes, such as Sous Chef Brent Johnson’s attentively monitored 12-month aged Prosciutto at Spruce, without feeling that they have overindulged during their dining experience. The restaurant’s Executive Chef and Partner Mark Sullivan admits, “You have to do so many little things to get people through the door.” Chef Sullivan goes on to explain that having a classic charcuterie plate with house-cured meats and Spruce’s own drying and butchering rooms, displays the restaurant’s utmost integrity for their food.

At Suite & Tender, San Diego’s newest hot spot that takes a softer, contemporary approach to steakhouse cuisine, James Beard Award-Winner Chef Christopher Lee lets the restaurant’s highest quality ingredients shine through simple, but expertly prepared small plates, such as the Kobe carpaccio served with pickled red onion, Reggiano-parmesan cheese and ciabatta croutons, to create an appetizer that is appropriately “plastic-spoon tender” and irresistibly fresh.

High quality ingredients shine in first-course dishes

Travel a few hours north of San Francisco to Six Peaks Grille at The Resort at Squaw Creek in Lake Tahoe, and you will discover that their top notch “American Wagyu Beef” is hand-selected at Broadleaf Farms by the resort’s culinary team. As chef of one of Northern California’s finest dining destinations and the hotel’s most sophisticated dining room, Six Peak Grille Executive Chef Chad Shrewsbury carefully portions his plates while using prized or less common cuts of meat from the finest flavored ingredients, fulfilling his mission to never compromise the food’s quality. He crafts his braised veal cheeks appetizer with caramelized dates and a rosemary jus; a sweet and savory combination that plays on the popular 1950s appetizer of bacon-wrapped dates. 

Even with the fine-dining reputation of Squaw Creek Valley’s restaurants, the resort’s Executive Chef Jason Friendly defines Six Peaks Grille cuisine as inspired “Mountain Food.” Ranging from the innovative braised veal appetizer to the familiar American Wagyu signature burger, Chef Friendly’s and Chef Shrewbury’s variety of gourmet offerings promise to appeal to the resort’s diverse clientele.

At Church & State in Los Angeles, curiosity arises when reading the menu’s first-course description of Moelle de Boeuf, or Roasted Bone Marrow. Diners can’t help but be intrigued by the mysterious components, which is a key to filling the seats and creating a great turnover rate each night. Although sweetbreads, bone marrow and beef carpaccio have been served in restaurants for decades, it has been only recently that traditional meat appetizers prepared with innovative twists have become an undeniable trend, popping up on menus across the country. Executive Chef Walter Manzke notes that “this isn’t an ideal economy for any restaurant, but I do think that having a great chef who is superlatively dedicated to his craft, as well as affordable pricing has helped us begin to build a loyal customer base.” He admits that the dish was a tough sell at first, but with the comfortable price and accessible menu of a classic French bistro, locals have been venturing back to explore all elements of the food.

There will always be obstacles in the restaurant business, but Chef Sullivan simply states that “people still want to eat out” and they seem to be “eating differently, in more creative ways, splitting dishes, still having a nice time and enjoying their meal.” A growing trend of ordering various appetizers to split among friends has become prevalent, while the decrease of entrée orders and check totals has become more visible. In this recession, chefs are making high-end menus more approachable and reaching out to a larger and more versatile clientele with dishes that appeal to adventurous and average eaters alike, winning over diners with mini meals of meat to satisfy their carnivorous cravings.

When an establishment uses meat of the highest quality and develops appetizers that are comprised of perfectly balanced components, such as Spruce’s sweetbreads Lyonnais, Six Peaks Grille’s veal cheeks, Suite & Tender’s Kobe Carpaccio and Church & State’s Moelle de Boeuf, customers are happily satisfied with smaller-sized portions of their favorite protein-filled plates. 

In the end, no excellent chef will compromise good flavor; however, when finances are tight, sacrifices must be made, and it is important to recognize that kitchens are up against a challenging task to resourcefully create more from less. Different chefs surely have different definitions of moderation, but more and more, restaurants are realizing that first-rate small plates are not only necessary due to budget cuts and pleasing the financially concerned consumer, but that a little can go a long way in gratifying patrons’ palates.

       Ali LaRaia is a food journalist based out of San Francisco. She is a regular contributor to Drink Me Magazine and can be followed regularly on her blog: A Date With Flavor.

Six Peaks Grill, Olympic Valley, CA

http://www.squawcreek.com/six-peaks-grille.php

Suite & Tender, San Diego, CA

www.suiteandtender.com

Spruce, San Francisco, CA

415.931.5100 • www.sprucesf.com

Church & State, Los Angeles, CA

2134.405.1434 • www.churchandstatebistro.com