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SWEETBREADS LYONNAISE (Photo on page 43)
[Serves 6]
INGREDIENTS [for poaching sweetbreads]
1 lg. lobe natural veal sweetbreads, approximately 1 lb.
3 cups whole milk
3 cups ice
1 qt. green verjus
1/2 qt. water
1 lemon, juice and zest peelings
12 thyme sprigs
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 stick of celery, coarsely chopped
1 medium sized yellow onion, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves split in half
12 black peppercorns
Salt, to taste
METHOD [for poaching sweetbreads]
Rinse sweetbreads in cold water. Place in a container with the milk and ice and
reserve chilled for 12 hours. This is necessary in order to clean the
sweetbreads of any impurities. Once soaked, rinse thoroughly in
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cold water and reserve chilled.
Place the verjus and water in a saucepot and bring to a simmer; add the onion,
carrot, celery, garlic, peppercorns; and simmer for 15 minutes. Turn the heat
off; add the thyme sprigs, lemon juice and lemon zest. Season the poaching
liquid with salt so that it tastes like seawater.
Submerge the sweetbreads in the hot liquid, and let the pot sit over a pilot for
10 minutes. Transfer all contents of the pot to a bowl and reserve in the refrigerator overnight. Cover
with plastic wrap once chilled. At this point, the sweetbreads are poached, but
are still very rare.
METHOD [for peeling and pressing]
The next morning remove sweetbreads from the liquid. Peel the outside film from
sweetbreads, being careful not to pick at every little membrane, or you will be
left with only small nuggets.
Pat sweetbreads dry with a kitchen towel. Place two very absorbent cloths on a
sheet pan and place sweetbreads on top. Cover with two cloths, and then place a
sheet pan over top. Place this setup in your refrigerator and weight it down
with approximately 5lbs., cans work great. After 6 to 8 hours, the sweetbreads
should be nicely pressed.
Chef/Partner Mark Sullivan
Spruce, San Francisco, CA
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>INGREDIENTS [for sweetbreads Lyonnais]
12 cups loosely packed mixed chicories, washed and dried
4 Tbl. soft herbs, (equal parts coarsely chopped parsley, tarragon, chervil and
chive)
4 oz. dry cured pancetta lardoons, cut ½ inch x 1inch
1 lobe previously soaked, poached, and pressed veal sweetbreads
Salt and white pepper
2 Tbl. grapeseed oil
4 oz. sweet butter
2 garlic cloves, bruised with the back of your knife
6 sprigs thyme
6 Tbl. shallots, finely minced
Juice and zest of one lemon
2 Tbl. Banyuls vinaigrette
4 oz. light chicken stock
1 Tbl. Dijon mustard
6 farm fresh chicken eggs
>METHOD
Place chicories in large mixing bowl with the soft herbs and set aside.
Sauté the pancetta lardoons on medium heat until lightly rendered with a golden brown
color. Set aside in their rendered fat.
Place 2 gallons of water in a large pot and hold at a very low simmer, so that
you are ready to poach the eggs.
Slice the sweetbread lobe into 6 equal portions, pat the sweetbreads dry and
liberally season with salt and white pepper. Place a large sauté pan over high heat for 3 minutes. Coat the bottom of the pan with grapeseed
oil, turn the heat to medium-low, and place the sweetbreads in the pan. Allow
the sweetbreads to cook until the contact area begins to caramelize, about two
minutes. Add 2 oz. of the butter, the bruised garlic, and fresh thyme sprigs to
the pan. Baste the sweetbreads with the foaming butter for 90 seconds. Flip the
sweetbreads over so that the sautéed side is now facing up. Continue basting for 90 seconds. If the butter begins
to burn or smoke, adjust the heat lower. Or, if the butter is not browning,
then turn the heat up. Press on the sweetbreads to check for doneness; they
should not feel mushy, or overly firm; desired internal temperature is 115
degrees. Once cooked, place the sweetbreads on a tray, and reserve, while
leaving the brown butter, thyme sprigs, and garlic in the pan for the pan
sauce.
In the same pan turn the heat to low and add the shallots, pancetta lardoons,
pancetta fat, and vigorously whisk in the lemon juice, lemon zest, Banyuls
vinegar and chicken stock. Bring the pan sauce to a simmer; reduce for 90
seconds, or until the sauce is slightly viscous; turn off the heat (discard the
thyme and garlic cloves). Allow the pan sauce to cool to 130 degrees, then
swirl in 2 ozs. of cold butter, and 1 Tablespoon of Dijon mustard to emulsify,
and immediately pour over the chicories. Toss the chicories and season to taste
with salt. Place the chicories covered in warm environment while you poach the
eggs (above the stovetop or in a very low oven).
Turn off the egg-poaching water and delicately crack 6 eggs into the water so
that they each have a little room of their own.
Let stand in the poaching liquid for 4-6 minutes, or until the white is cooked
and the yolk is skinning over but still soft in the center.
>ASSEMBLY
Divide the warm chicory salad equally into 6 salad bowls, leaving a small well
in the center of the greens. Drizzle any remaining vinaigrette around the
borders of each bowl.
Delicately scoop out the poached eggs with a slotted spoon or spatula and
nestle the soft egg into the well. Garnish the egg with a sprinkle of fleur de
sel (sel gris, or maldon sea salt are fine substitutes), and coarsely ground
black pepper.
Slice each of the sweetbread pieces in half and place over the salad bordering
the egg.
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