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Cuts: Cheap to Chic


by Carleigh Connelly


What should restaurants do when their customers are mad for meat but both the kitchen and the diners are keeping a tight grip on their wallets? Chefs must use their cooking creativity and develop dishes that wow guests with refined but comforting fare, while maintaining a reasonable price tag. Although this may sound easier said than done, the reality is that a little resourcefulness goes a long way when culinary talent and the right ingredients are part of the recipe. Fortunately, for both cost-conscious industry professional and carnivorous eaters alike, 2009’s culinary trend of budget cuts making a sophisticated comeback on modern menus is as delicious as it is practical.

While many restaurants may decide that downsizing portions and reducing the use of fine ingredients during this recession is the only way for their establishment to survive and thrive, cuisine-focused chefs have found innovative ways to use the current financial setbacks as a reason to create new panache dishes that feature less expensive parts of the cow, such as ground meat, short ribs, low-cost steak cuts and offal.


Exciting and approachable: Beef on the cheap

At celebrity chef Elizabeth Falkner’s restaurant Orson in San Francisco, contemporary cuisine with a modern edge promises to impress guests with avant-garde dishes that are both exciting and approachable. Her braised beef short ribs with beet-ricotta gnudi is a perfect example of a kitchen that has developed enticing menu items from affordable pieces of meat that are both unique and familiar to a customer’s palette.

Executive Chef Victor Jimenez at Cowboy Star in San Diego, creates menu masterpieces that embody the spirit of the American West, highlighting the season’s freshest offerings. The lunch option of braised beef short ribs with potato puree, bourbon glazed carrots and natural jus is a more traditional take on the inexpensive rib cut, whereas Cowboy Star’s dinner appetizer of lamb short ribs with potato dumplings and whiskey currant-sauce reveals Chef Jimenez’s originality with affordable pieces of meat.

Ribs are just one entrée where Chef Falkner plays with beef budget cuts on her menu. She also takes one of the most common American applications of meat, the burger, and raises its culinary status by pairing her ground chuck patty with a home-baked parmesan bun, truffle mayonnaise, and house-made steak sauce, in addition to a generous side of cobb relish and duck fat fries; the true makings of an indulgent comfort-food treat.

Orson is not the only restaurant to recognize the benefits of offering high-quality ground beef and short rib dishes to their patrons, San Francisco’s Zaré at Fly Trap is known for their exceptional Persian preparations that feature inexpensive and unusual ingredients, winning diners over with flavorful entrees at reasonable price points. Chef and owner Hoss Zaré serves his single bone beef short rib with a savory Milanese risotto, combining traditional Italian flavors with contemporary Middle Eastern cuisine.


Versatility of budget cuts = culinary                opportunities

Like Chef Falkner, Zaré embraces the versatility of minced meat by implementing tasty twists on customary fare from his native country of Iran, with menu items such as pistachio meatballs with harissa-honey-pomegranate glaze and the Persian celebratory delicacy, kufteh.

After studying restaurant menus from a breadth of diverse cuisines, it is clear that high-end kitchens are increasingly featuring ground beef and short ribs on their bill of fare; a movement that is driven by both customer demand and business perspective.

Research from FreshLook data reveals that consumer sales of ground beef rose by a volume of six percent in the past year. This number emphasizes that whether people are going out to dinner or shopping at the grocery store, the bottom line of value remains a key decision factor when making food-related choices. Although ground meat and short ribs are two excellent cheap to chic options, there are many other beef chops, such as particular cuts of steak and offal, that are culinary gold mines for chefs to explore.


Beef can be offal-ly good

High-end restaurants throughout California and Nevada have placed a greater emphasis on developing original variations on familiar beef options. This trend not only satisfies their customers’ foodcentric and budget driven demands, but also upholds their restaurant’s reputation as a gourmet destination.

Chef and Partner Mark Sullivan of San Francisco’s highly regarded restaurant Spruce admits, “Chefs ultimately need to be more creative, and that means turning to things like charcuterie and offal, like sweetbreads. Utilizing the lesser cuts, forces the creativity.” Even though Chef Sullivan’s classic grilled bavette steak served with duck fat potatoes and a traditional bordelaise sauce is one of Spruce’s most popular dishes and a perfect example of low-cost beef taken to an epicurean level, the restaurant’s most standout offering is the sweet breads Lyonnaise; a perfectly balanced appetizer of creamy and crisp textures.

John Torode aptly summarizes diners’ reactions to offal on menus in his comprehensive book, Beef. He explains, “There are many parts of the world where offal (also called variety meats or organ meats) is considered the finest of all cuts of any animal. In Thailand, (an) old recipe for offal would have been written for the royal palace as all offal was reserved for the royal family. We in the West have a varied attitude to offal – some people are scared of it and some love it. Like politics and religion, it will divide a dinner table more quickly than the announcement that someone’s partner is having an affair.” Whether more customary dishes, such as Spruce’s modern take on steak frites, or unusual gourmet fare, such as tripe, oxtail, sweetbreads and cheeks are your clientele’s cuisine of preference, offal’s worth as not only an abundant, but also an adaptable ingredient is unquestionable.

Despite offal’s debated status as a divine delicacy or fowl fodder, the benefits of cooking with less expensive cuts of meat are numerous, expanding chef’s gastronomic horizons by embracing that cheap can be chic if culinary talent and creativity are partnered in the kitchen.

Carleigh Connelly is the Managing  Editor of Culinary Trends magazine. She has written for various publications such as Every Day with Rachael Ray and Chicago Magazine. After exploring the culinary scenes of Chicago, Baltimore, Washington D.C., New York and Paris from the resident’s perspective, Carleigh’s passion for food and wine inevitably led her to the epicurean mecca of San Francisco.


Cowboy Star's Braised Beef Short Ribs with Cauliflower Root Puree.
Inspiration for Executive Chefs
Crilled Bavette Steak/Duck Fat Potatoes/Bordelaise